An exploration of the best chardonnay across the West End
Penny Sharp is a WSET level 3 qualified wine specialist with over four years in the drinks industry; passionate that wine doesn’t have to be stuffy or pretentious, the key factor is whether you enjoy what you’re drinking.
Chardonnay first developed a name for being overly oaked, with an incredibly strong flavour thanks to the prominence of 80s and 90s new-world chardonnay which — despite being loved by some — cemented its reputation as the controversial choice within white wine. Despite its controversial reputation, chardonnay is not only one of the most diverse grape varieties, but is also a fantastic option for food pairings. In actuality, there are very few examples on the market reflecting even close to the controversial traits that gave the grape its unfortunate reputation.
Mayu Gran Reserva Chardonnay
One of my all time favourite examples of chardonnay has to be the ‘Mayu Gran Reserva Chardonnay’ (£13, Majestic Wine). Chile is often discredited as a region that produces large quantities of unexciting wine, but in my experience Chile offers some world class examples of both red and white wines with beautiful complexity. Especially when looking past the name brands and venturing into the £10-£17 range, the quality level is fantastic. Chilean chardonnay never fails to impress; it has a distinctive flavour of green olive with a moreish minerality similar to olive brine, which I adore, and I have yet to find in any other wine region. It has a subtle richness, making it the perfect pairing with creamy pasta dishes, but is an absolute delight on its own.
Philippe Chénard Chardonnay de Loire
A recent favourite of mine is the Philippe Chénard Chardonnay de Loire’ (£14.95, Corke & Caske). Despite being a huge fan of The Loire Valley through its outstanding examples of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet France (which can be great value for money if you know where to look), Loire chardonnay is a relatively recent discovery of mine. Being just a stones throw away from the vineyards of Burgundy which put old world chardonnay firmly on the map, Loire’s expressions are not dissimilar, with a shared minerality and rich creaminess — but for a fraction of the price. Phillippe Chénard offers a slightly more aromatic take on the classic, with beautiful notes of peach and dried apricot and a rich, creamy texture that would be a perfect accompaniment to a prawn cocktail.
Next time you are scanning the shelves of your local wine shop or supermarket, remember chardonnay is the main component of many classic styles, such as Chablis or Blanc de Blanc Champagne. It is absolutely worth taking the time to challenge its reputation and discover how varied the chardonnay can truly be. You never know, you might even find yourself with a new favourite!
