Scottish Designers Turn Textile Waste into Fashion for Social Change
I for one, am a champion of the spring clean. I have that subtle mix of OCD and killer organisation skills that leaves the family running for the hills when I say ‘right, let’s tidy your wardrobe,’ says Elena Taggart
Images: Francesca Morrison Photography
I have been helping women declutter and hone their wardrobes for many years. Much to everyone’s embarrassment (not mine) I am no stranger to asking for a hoover and a duster and giving their wardrobes a thorough clean when they are empty. I’ve even asked for a drill and a screwdriver in one home, so that I could remove rails and shelves for a very grateful client who needed more long hanging space.
During spring so many of us are doing just this, the big ‘spring clean’. I remember fondly helping my mum do just that, although she was a bit like me, any excuse to clean out a wardrobe and she was on it. If you ask Google, which I did, the big ‘spring clean’ has various origins both practical and ritualistic. Apparently in the 19th Century when most homes were heated with coal, wood and oil, by the end of winter, a fine layer of soot and grime covered literally everything – walls, curtains and furniture. Makes sense really.
There is also the ‘M’ factor – melatonin. During the winter months our bodies produce more melatonin which makes us feel sleepier and more sluggish. When the sun eventually comes out after those dark winter mornings, the surge of energy naturally wakes us up and gives us the physical drive to tackle the big tasks. The excitement of a ‘fresh start’ as the temperature changes, gives us that extra boost. I love to get out of those heavy winter layers, pull out the spring summer swag bag and hit the imaginary reset button.
Seasonality
One of the key pieces of advice I give all clients and friends is to store out of season clothes, out of sight. In your wardrobe at any given time are those things that are seasonally appropriate. And also make you feel great right now.
If the piece isn’t working for you or the current temperature, store it. There is nothing more exciting than opening a bag of stored clothes in spring, after a long dark winter, and finding fun floaty pieces that you forgot you had. This is a very important way you can keep the joy in your wardrobe, keep things feeling fresh and dare I say the cliche – shop your own wardrobe.
How you store and care for your clothes is so important in prolonging the life of the pieces. Learning what suits you, how to shop well and what to buy are key lessons I teach clients. If we can better understand what to buy we can reduce our clothing consumption overall. But as we start to declutter what is the best route for our bags and bags of unwanted clothes?
We have an abundance of amazing charity shops in the West End who welcome donations and are also a great place to shop, something I covered in the Nov/Dec edition of the magazine (available at westendermagazine.com/online-only/best-charity-clothing-glasgow-west).
We are all aware of the surge of fast fashion brands and their impact on the worrying mindset of ‘disposable clothing’ where you buy it, wear it once then ‘charity shop it’. For those who wouldn’t be seen dead in the same thing twice, the availability of cheap, fast fashion is having a massive impact on the planet and enabling this behaviour. An article in Ethical Consumer stated that fast fashion brands are producing 50% more items today than in 2000 and that the number of times an item is worn has been estimated to have fallen by 36% in the last 15 years. Thus, many of our charity shops are sitting on a mountain of unwanted, unloved and discarded clothing.
Rags to Riches
According to Shelter Scotland, rag stock – the clothing that can’t be sold in-store due to damage, poor quality, or fast-fashion excess – is currently facing a dramatic 50% drop in value, to as little as 5p per kilogram. This decline highlights the overwhelming volume of clothing being discarded – far more than recycling systems can handle.
I recently came across the recent Fashion for Social Change design challenge. A groundbreaking collection of six upcycled outfits – created entirely from rag stock donated to Shelter Scotland. The designs were unveiled at Glasgow’s historic Trades Hall and spotlight the urgent issue of textile waste while celebrating Scotland’s extraordinary creative talent.
What I love about this project is that it demonstrates what is possible when imagination meets sustainability. Six designers took textiles deemed ‘worthless’ and transformed them into showstopping garments inspired by Scotland’s textile heritage. I spoke with model, Gillian Cheung, who brought the garments to life during the shoot.
Gillian said:
‘It was a privilege to be involved in a project that not only celebrates creativity but also shines a light on the urgent issue of textile waste. Seeing garments that were destined for the rag bin transformed into pieces of real artistry was inspiring. Supporting Shelter Scotland through this challenge felt meaningful, proof that fashion can be both beautiful and a force for social good.’
Shelter Scotland’s mission is to fight the housing emergency and support people experiencing homelessness or unsafe housing, which connects so directly with this challenge. The better use they can make of donated stock, the more funds and awareness they can generate to fight the housing emergency.
Defining Value
The designers behind the collection include Emma Corcoran, Franz Maggs, Gadgie, Josh Jensen, May Macaulay, and Krishma Sabbarwal. ‘These designers proved that value isn’t defined by price tags,’ the team behind the challenge said. ‘It’s defined by creativity, craft, skill, and community.’
Shelter Scotland is encouraging the public to donate garments they no longer wear to their local store. Every item, whether pristine or imperfect, helps keep clothing in circulation, supports the environment, and directly contributes to Shelter Scotland’s fight for home across the country.
So, what is the lesson here as we Westenders finish our big ‘spring clean’ reset? Let’s think more thoughtfully about what we buy, what we introduce to our wardrobes, will it last? Can I wear it 10 ways, will I wear it more than 30 times? Do I need it? Can I update it? Can I upcycle this myself? I think in the long run if we all consume less and are a little more creative at home, the mountains of clothing waste which are worryingly high will start to come down.
Shelter
679 Great Western Rd, G12 8RA
scotland.shelter.org.uk/shops/glasgow_botanics_community_shop
Ways to upcycle at home:
I am no stranger to a little machine dye, so before you bin something consider ways you can upcycle and relove your garments at home, so dust off those P7 sewing skills and get to work.
DENIM PROBLEMS – CUT IT.
Raw hem jeans and ‘daisy dukes’ (my husband’s name for denim shorts) are always in style. Cutting a pair of jeans is the gateway drug of recycling. You’ll not want to stop. If your jeans are too long, a raw hem is an easy way to take a few inches off. Or if they are ripped in the wrong place, jeans to shorts is an easy fix. Don’t just cut straight across, cut at a slight upward angle toward the outer hip for a more flattering fit.
REINVENT A TEE.
Bored of the same old same old, cutting an inch or two off the sleeves of a boxy tee can give you a nice cap sleeve or go higher for a full muscle tank. Jersey knit curls and creates a raw hem that won’t require sewing.
DYE IT.
I am a huge fan of machine dyes for clothing that is a little washed out. The stitching never dyes, so you can’t take white jeans from white to black unless you want white stitching. But you can refresh a darker washed-out jean and make them black again.
TIE DYE IT.
I think everyone did this in COVID right, while waiting for your sourdough to prove? I for one love a bit of tie dye, and it can be a fun way to change up an item and create something new.
MAKE SOMETHING WITH IT.
That sentimental dress you loved, the one with the lovely pattern, the piece you can’t bear to part with? It could be a pillow, it could be a wall feature – can you cut a section and frame it? One of my most cherished possessions is a little bag I got from a client which was made from one of her old dresses. You could take several pieces and make a patchwork pillow. There is always life in something.
