Amy Glasgow @theglasgowdiet reviews steak restaurant Bovine at Glasgow Grosvenor Hotel
Anyone who works in the hospitality industry will know how difficult the past couple of years have been when it comes to finding the best chefs, and its been no different for Glasgow Grosvenor Hotel and their stylish steak restaurant, Bo’Vine, until recently.
Head Chef Ruaridh Campbell has provided a breath of fresh air to this Byres Road restaurant, creating a new menu that provides classic flavours with a modern twist. His passion, he claims as we chat over a cocktail, comes from taking the French classics that people expect, and some they don’t, and giving them a new lease of life. This is evident in the new a la carte menu, which is filled with a mix of classic and new and unique flavour pairings.
At Ruaridh’s recommendation, I start my meal with the seared scallops, crispy ham hock terrine, caraway carrot and puree. This dish, he claims, is one of his favourite additions to the menu, one that he felt fell into place early on in development, and I understand his admiration for it. The scallops are beautifully seared, their natural sweetness complimented by the sweetness of the carrot. The whole dish comes together with the addition of the crispy ham hock, which adds a salty, savoury hit.
On the other side of the table, my husband decided to go for one of the most unique sounding starters; Stornoway black pudding French toast, with flavours of HP and compressed apple. Definitely unique and unusual, this is a dish for those who love rich, hearty plates. The portion size is perfect though, and the sweet sharpness from the “HP” helps cut through the richness of the black pudding and crispy ‘French toast’.
When it comes to main courses, as their name suggests, it’s all about quality Scottish beef, so it’s impossible not to order a steak. If, however, you fancy something lighter, restaurant manager Calum is quick to gush about the fillet of lemon sole, with Kalamata olive, harissa and preserved lemon butter.
I can’t resist the call of the Campbells Gold Standard Beef though, opting for a rare fillet steak while my husband orders a medium-rare rib eye. Both steaks are cooked to perfection, with a perfect sear on the outside. Honestly, if you googled what a perfect rare fillet steak would look like, it would be a picture of my steak. Again at Ruaridh’s recommendation, I decide to go for the Cafe de Paris butter to accompany my steak. This butter, flavoured with 17 different ingredients including dill, lemon, anchovy, mustard and Worcestershire sauce, carries a heavy punch of flavour. I absolutely adored it, it only served to enhance the flavour of my steak and I’m honestly tempted to ask Ruaridh if he’ll send me home with a block!
My only small criticism, if you can call it that, is that the chocolate fondant I ordered for dessert was a little overcooked, lacking the signature oozing, unctuous centre. Despite this though, it still made for a rich, indulgent, chocolatey dessert that I devoured within minutes of it arriving, so I can’t really complain too much.
Price-wise, starters range from £7.50 to £15, with mains around the £20 mark and steaks varying from £32-40 depending on the cut. If you’re looking to save a few quid though, their market menu offers good value, with three courses for £26.
Having been dining at Bo’Vine for many years, it’s great to see a talented chef like Ruaridh take the reigns and breathe new life into the space, and I can’t wait to see where he takes it in the coming months.
Bo’Vine Glasgow Grosvenor Hotel
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